FROM SARONGS TO THONGS:
50 YEARS OF BEACH FASHION AT WAIKIKI

Today's youth have grown up exposed to endless images of the beach. Hollywood has glorified the young, muscular, tanned body for the past thirty years. The glamorous lifestyles of movie stars established a model for living, which Americans were eager to imitate. Their trim, tanned bodies and casual dress reflected a carefree attitude that literally changed the fashion industry (Maeder, 1996). Hollywood stars were photographed vacationing in Hawai'i and wearing aloha attire. Beach movies released in the 1960s fueled fashion not only in Hawai'i but also on the mainland where designers were inspired by Hawaiian beach fashions.

The baby boom generation has had an impact on fashion in two respects--fashion has shifted toward more youthful styles, and clothing has becoming increasingly casual. Hawaiian beach fashions, embraced by the youthful sub-cultures of the 1960s and 1970s, served as an impetus toward casualizing everyday clothing. The trend toward accepting Hawaiian beachwear as everyday leisurewear began in Hawai'i. Increasing tourism and the surfing craze resulted in the trend migrating to the mainland where Californians began to wear more casual dress for leisure activities. In the 1980s, casual Fridays began in California mimicking Aloha Friday which had originated in Hawai'i in the 1960s. More people began wearing aloha shirts and other casual garments to work.

The first major Hawaiian clothing company was Kamehameha Garment Company, which began in 1936. The majority of the costumes in this exhibit come from several donations of Hawaiian costume by Kamehameha, and its former owner, Violet Ferrell.

This exhibit is sponsored by the Textiles and Clothing Program
College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources
University of Hawai'i at Manoa

Curator: Dr. Linda Boynton Arthur

Assistant Curator: Dr. Barbara W. Laughlin

Student Researchers:

1940s

A health craze at the end of the 19th Century had far reaching impact on beachwear. It was commonly believed that wool worn next to the skin would promote good health, and this is why one-piece woolen bathing suits were worn and continued through the 1930s. By the 1940s, lighter, comfortable suits for swimming, rather than bathing, became popular. Men wore swim trunks and women wore one or two-piece swimsuits. Some Waikiki hotels provided swimsuits for their guests. At the Royal Hawaiian Hotel, these outfits consisted of blue shorts for men and matching shorts and halter-tops for women. As we see in this exhibit at the Royal Hawaiian Hotel,

A very comfortable sun parlor is at the south end of the ballroom, which is used to serve luncheon to guests in their bathing suits. The luncheon service to hotel guests in their beach attire is a feature much enjoyed. (Territorial Hotel Co., ca. 1935).

1940s Garments Exhibited:

Men's blue cotton bathing trunks, with button fly closure. Made for the Royal Hawaiian Hotel.
Date: 1935-1945
Accession: H.1995.6.2

Women's two-piece blue cottons swimsuit, with front full closures and whites buttons. Made for the Royal Hawaiian Hotel.
Date: 1935-1945
Accession: H.1995.6.3a & b

Panama Hat, white paints over natural straw.
Date: 1940s
Donor: Tony Lanzer
Accession: W.1988.3.1

Hat, black, wide brimmed straw and grosgrain made by Betmar.
Date: Reproduction, circa 1940s
Loan: Courtesy of Lisa Nozaki

1950s

After the introduction of the bikini in 1946 by French designer Jacques Helm, women began wearing less on the beach. By the 1950s, both one and two-piece swimsuits were commonly in use. The Kamehameha Garment Company manufactured one-piece swimsuits and dresses for Miss Hawai'i contestants. This popular line was seen in the hotels and on the beaches. Men's fashions reflected a trend in coordinated outfits. The cabana suit consisted of a loose, short-sleeved shirt with matching swimtrunks.

The sarong, of Southeast Asian origin, was adopted and made popular by Dorothy Lamour. The sarong consisted of a long strip of printed fabric worn as a skirt tucked in at the waist. This style was adapted to women's dresses and swimsuits in the 1950s.

1950s Garments Exhibited:

Sarong dress of polished cotton, floral design of purple, blue, pink and green.
Date: Circa 1950s
Donor: Kamehameha Garment Co.
Accession: H.1986.8.93

Women's Swimsuit, Miss Hawai'i, pink and white Lastex.
Date: Circa 1955
Donor: Kamehameha Garment Co.
Accession: H.1986.186

Men's two-piece cabana suit, green batik print on cotton.
Date: Circa 1955
Loan: Courtesy of Brad Walker

1960s and 1970s

In Hawai'i, swimwear became a major fashion focus during the 1960s and 1970s as youth and sport became highly valued in America. Surfing had been a significant sport in Hawai'i for a long time and the sport required sturdy and functional garments. Hawaiian surfers contributed to the direction of beach fashions in the 1960s. Board shorts and board-short bikinis became the surfer's uniforms. The board short influence was still strongly felt in the 1970s, but beachwear for women evolved toward a more revealing style.

1960s and 1970s Garments Exhibited:

Women's two-piece swimsuit, bright multicolor with halter-top and skirted bottom.
Date: 1960s
Donor: Kamehameha Garment Co.
Accession: H.1997.23a & b

Men's aloha shirt, rust, and mustard, blue and lime green floral print shown with army green board shorts accented in white.
Date: 1960s
Donor: Kamehameha Garment Co.
Accession: H.1997.2.4 and H.1997.2.5

Child's shorts in brown cotton with buttoned border at cuff.
Date: 1960s
Donor: Kamehameha Garment Co.
Accession: H.1997.2.10b

Girl's cotton bikini, bright pink, white and green with lace trim.
Date: 1960s
Donor: Kamehameha Garment Co.
Accession: H.1997.2.6a & b

Women's cotton surf bikini in orange and red imitation of Hawaiian tapa prints.
Date: 1960s
Donor: Kamehameha Garment Co.
Accession: H.1997.2.2a & b

Miss Hawai'i nylon and cotton lace bathing suit and cover-up.
Date: 1970s
Donor: Kamehameha Garment Co.
Accession: H.1986.8.75a & b

Women's cotton bikini, white, black and orange abstract print and brass buckle.
Date: 1970s
Donor: Kamehameha Garment Co.
Accession: H.1986.8.187

 

1980s

The 1980s saw more people joining aerobic and dance classes, health spas, and gyms. Toning up and being physically fit became a health craze that swept the nation. Those with well-conditioned bodies could wear body-hugging clothing like swimsuits, and the beach was the ideal place to display a shapely physique wrought from hours of hard work. In Hawai'i, sunny skies and beautiful beaches became the natural backdrop for volleyball matches.

Men and women have worn casual clothes both on and off the beach since the 1970s. These revealing shorts, shirts, and exercise outfits reflect the importance of sports, informality, and personal freedom.

Bold, colorful prints and more somber colors were both acceptable for men's clothing during the 1980s. Locally designed or surfing logo T-shirts with shorts and the classic Hawaiian slipper were the norm. Neon and neoprene became trendy fashion statements and appeared along with the more traditional Miss Hawai'i swimsuits. Many traditional suits actually exposed more skin than a first glance revealed.

1980s Garments Exhibited:

Men's cotton floral print shorts.
Date: 1980s
Donor: Dr. Barbara Harger
Accession: H.1996.2.1

Boy's cotton knit T-shirt.
Date: 1980s
Donor: Departmental purchase
Accession: H.1997.1.1

Boy's shorts, bleached and stonewashed black cotton.
Date: 1980s
Donor: Departmental purchase
Accession: W.1997.1.2

Women's neoprene bandeau bikini top.
Date: 1980s
Donor: Departmental purchase
Accession: W.1997.1.3

Women's jogging shorts, neon green nylon.
Date: 1980s
Donor: Departmental purchase
Accession: H.1997.1.2

Women's one-piece blue Lycra Miss Hawai'i swimsuit with twist center front.
Date: 1986
Donor: Kamehameha Garment Co.
Accession: H.1997.2.9

Women's one-piece purple Lycra swimsuit.
Date: 1980s
Donor: Departmental purchase
Accession: W.1997.1.1

Blue floral print sarong, nylon tricot.
Date: 1980s
Donor: Kamehameha Garment Co.
Accession: H.1986.8.321

1990s

As we move toward the 21st century, the mood in fashion is "anything goes." Two trends in women's beachwear are exhibited here. The "bare look" as observed in today's thong surpasses earlier versions of skimpy bathing attire. In some areas of the country, the wearing of a thong is not permitted unless a cover-up is used. The sheer cover-up shown here is the wearer's concession to modesty and local regulations.

Another popular trend today is the retro look. Wearing fashion reminiscent of earlier periods is very popular for both street and beach wear. The two-piece bra and boxer short swimsuit shown here recalls earlier styles of the 40s and 50s updated with newer fabrics and colors.

1990s Garments Exhibited:

Women's glistening aqua thong in nylon and spandex.
Date: 1997
Loan: Courtesy of Splash! Hawai'i

Women's sheer cotton aqua cover-up.
Date: 1997
Loan: Courtesy of Splash! Hawai'i

Women's blue and brown woven straw tote by Esprit.
Date: 1997
Loan: Courtesy of Splash! Hawai'i

Women's two-piece bra and boxer swimsuit in turquoise and pink polyester and spandex.
Date: 1997
Loan: Courtesy of Splash! Hawai'i

No Headache purple sunvisor.
Date: 1997
Loan: Courtesy of Splash! Hawai'i

Women's white platform shoes.
Date: 1990s
Loan: Courtesy of Liza Kawabata

Board shorts, blue and white print nylon; silver waistline yoke and blue/white print rayon sarong. Black/white canvas backpack.
Date: 1990s
Loan: Kamehameha Garment Co.

*A special thanks to Kamehameha Garment Co. for donating many of the exhibit items.

Founded in 1936 by Herbert Briner, Kamehameha Garment Company has recently celebrated 60 years of operation. Briner came to the islands in the mid 1930s on a mission for the May Co. to investigate the dyeing of raw silk. He began to work for the Oahu Garment Company but soon bought out the company and changed its name to Kamehameha. Originally a small Beretania Street plant manufacturing men's raw silk shirts, the plant grew and was relocated to Hilo. Briner served as president and handled local sales. Millie Briner was a model and designer for the firm who eventually became Briner's wife.

In the early years of operation at Kamehameha, fabrics were designed in Hawai'i, printed in California, and manufactured into shirts in Hawai'i. During the Christmas season of 1936, a shipping strike caused the fabric to be stranded in California and the finished garments in Hawai'i. The companies tried to sell the garments locally, but the local market wasn't ready. It wasn't until wartime, when Japanese fabrics were no longer available, that Hawaiian prints became popular.

Kamehameha and Branfleet (later Kahala) were the first companies to export in quantity to the mainland, resulting in other local manufacturers eventually doing the same. In the late 1940s and early 1950s, major retail stores on the mainland promoted Hawaiian-made garments. Filene's of Boston claim for "the largest exhibit of Hawaiian material ever assembled outside the islands" (Fundaburk, 1965) coupled with the introduction of air transportation resulted in the air transport of garments from Kamehameha and Kahala to Boston via Pan American World Airways and American Airlines.

Kamehameha's trademark has been brightly colored designs that continue to be sold all over the world. Although a great percentage of Kamehameha's products are cotton, the firm also is credited with producing Hawaiian prints on a nylon knit for swimsuits and island patterns on stretch fabric. The company was one of the original sponsors of the Miss Hawai'i contest, and contestants frequently modeled new designs in mainland shows. Miss Hawai'i swimsuits have become a tradition at Kamehameha.

In 1966, Herb Briner died, and the company was left to his sons and Millie Briner. Eventually Crown Corporation bought out the family although Ms. Briner continued as president until the mid 1970s.Violet Ferrell, an assistant to Ms. Briner, headed the company for approximately the next decade. After she left, a series of management changes and corporate restructuring led to negotiations to transfer the Kamehameha name and legacy in 1990 to current owner Brad Walker.

References

Briner was a Pioneer of Isle Garment Industry. (March 30, 1966). Honolulu Star Bulletin.

Founder of Kamehameha Garment Co. Dies. (March 30, 1966). Honolulu Advertiser.

Fundaburk, E.L. (1965). Development of Apparel Manufacturing, Textile Designing and Textile Painting in Hawai'i. Economic Research Center, University of Hawai'i.

Garments From Hilo Worn All Over Nation. (October 14 1954). Hilo Tribune-Herald. (1984).

Maeder, E. (1996). Introduction in Simon, A. from Bustles to Bikinis: A Century of Beach Fashions. San Diego. San Diego Historical Society (Exhibit brochure).

Meet the Hawaiian Fashion Guild. (September 1959). California Stylist.

Steele, H.T. (1984). The Hawaiian Shirt-Its Art and History. Abbeville Press, New York.

The Kamehameha Garment Co: Part of Hawai'i's History. Prepared by Kamehameha Garment Company.

Walker, Brad. (1966, 1997). Personal communication. (Current owner of Kamehameha Garment Company).

Acknowledgements:

Thank you to the following people and organizations for their contributions:

Kamehameha Garment Company
Eric T. Oruma, Vice President, Island Landscaping and Maintenance, Inc.
Barbara Sheehan, Director of Public Relations, Royal Hawaiian Hotel
Splash! Hawaii
Brad Walker, President of Kamehameha Garment Company
Kin Chin Wong

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